Some glass days feel cursed: you wipe and polish…and a faint mist reappears the second the light hits. Streaks aren’t a moral failing, they’re chemistry and timing. Tweak both, and the fog lifts.
Work on cool glass out of direct sun, mist lightly, and use two tight-weave microfibres, one to clean, one to buff. The result? Clear panes first time, without the endless re-wipe. If you’d like the background, see our Complete Guide to Glass Cleaning.
Why glass streaks (the simple science)
Streaks usually come from two culprits acting together:
Residue - left behind soap film, wax from old products, kitchen grease, hard-water minerals, and even lint from the cloth. These smear into faint “ghosts” as you wipe.
Evaporation that’s too fast - hot glass, direct sunlight or a draft can dry the cleaner mid-wipe, freezing it in place before you’ve lifted the residue.
Cloths/tools that redeposit - paper towels and fluffy microfibres shed fibres and move soil around instead of removing it.
Dial down the heat/sun, lift residue properly, and use the right cloth, and the streaks stop appearing.
What you need (minimal kit)
- Streak Free Eco Glass Cleaner (bottle or Refill Sachet).
Two tight-weave microfibre glass cloths: one “wet work”, one “dry buff”. Wash them hot and skip fabric softener so they stay absorbent and lint-free.
Optional: a squeegee for big panes, and distilled water if you live in a hard-water area.
That’s it. No paper towels, no newspaper, no mystery sprays.
The streak-free method (step-by-step)
- Pick your moment. Work on cool glass, out of direct sun and away from a draught.
Dry prep. Dust frames/edges and flick away grit so you’re not dragging particles across the surface.
Targeted dwell. Fingerprints or cooker-side splashes? Mist those spots and wait 20–30 seconds so the cleaner can loosen them.
Light mist, small sections. You want a thin film, not a soak, so it lifts and evaporates evenly.
S-pattern wipe, top to bottom. With cloth #1, sweep in overlapping S-shapes. On big panes, you can squeegee after this pass, then cloth the edges.
Flip often. Turn cloth #1 as it loads, so you’re always wiping with a clean side.
Dry buff and edges. Use cloth #2 (kept dry) to chase the last traces, especially around seals and corners.
Check, don’t chase. Step to a low angle; if you see a faint line, a quick spot-buff with the dry cloth clears it.
Troubleshooting (quick fixes that actually work)
Cloudy film after drying → Your cloths are carrying residue (or there’s old wax/soap on the glass).
Fix: Hot-wash microfibres (no fabric softener), use a lighter mist, then finish with a dry buff.
Vertical lines → Too much product or hot glass.
Fix: Work smaller sections with a light mist and only on cool, shaded glass.
Rainbow smears → Silicone or wax build-up from past products.
Fix: Do one degreaser pass (or a dedicated glass prep), then repeat the streak-free method.
Specks or lint → Paper towels or fluffy cloths.
Fix: Switch to tight-weave microfibre; wash them hot and avoid fabric softener.
Spots that won’t shift → Mineral scale from hard water.
Fix: Treat the area with a limescale remover, rinse, then go back to your glass cleaner.
Streaks reappear quickly → Cloth is saturated.
Fix: Swap or flip cloths more often; keep one cloth always dry for the final buff.
Seasonal & environmental tips
Summer: Skip midday sun. Glass warms up fast, so clean early or late, work smaller areas, and flip the cloth more often.
Winter: Rooms can be cooler and more humid, give greasy marks a touch more dwell, and watch for condensation.
Hard-water homes: After cleaning, a super-quick pass with distilled water before your dry buff can reduce mineral speckling on shower screens and exterior panes.
Kitchens & bathrooms: Oils and steam add film. Plan a brief pre-wipe on cooker-side panels and shower glass to remove the heavy stuff, then do the streak-free pass.
Why our formula works best
Our Streak Free Eco Glass Cleaner is ammonia-free and pH-neutral, so it’s kinder to seals, films and fixtures and doesn’t fog up the room with harsh fumes. A balanced mix of fast-evaporating alcohol and mild surfactants lifts fingerprints and film, then dries clear when you clean in the shade with a light mist and a dry buff.
It’s designed to pair with tight-weave microfibre for crisp edges and corners. Prefer to top up? The Refill Sachet keeps the same streak-free performance while cutting plastic and cupboard clutter.
FAQs
What’s the best cloth for streak-free glass?
A tight-weave microfibre made for glass. Wash hot, no fabric softener, and air-dry so it stays grabby and lint-free.
Can I use glass cleaner on tinted film or coated glass?
Often yes if the cleaner is ammonia-free. Spray the cloth, not the glass, avoid the film edges, and check the film maker’s care advice.
Why do my mirrors streak more than windows?
Bathrooms add steam and product overspray, so there’s extra residue. Do a quick pre-wipe, then the light-mist, two-cloth method.
How often should I wash the cloths?
Every session for mirrors and shower glass; after a couple of windows for lighter jobs. If streaks creep back, launder them hot and skip softener.
Can I clean glass in direct sun?
You can, but it’s harder. The cleaner evaporates too fast, leaving marks. If you must, work tiny sections and buff immediately with a dry cloth.
